Chut Thai: 

Few things in Thailand are as instantly iconic as the traditional Thai dress, or chut thai, but what you may not know is that there are many styles to choose from. Each style is used for different occasions and the ensembles can be layered with rich symbolism.

These styles were formalized into eight outfits for women attending official functions by Her Majesty Queen Sirikit, the Queen Mother. Considered an icon of Thai fashion, the Queen Mother is responsible for imbuing the national costume with its distinct Thai identity.

This article explains the historical impetus behind the chut thai, the differences between the various styles, and the revival of Thai textiles.

Chut Thai: Every Thai Traditional Dress Explained

• The origins of the chut thai

• The eight Thai dresses

• SUPPORT for Thai textiles

• Fashion fit for a Queen

The origins of the chut thai

The language of style requires no verbal communication; instead, it speaks through textures, colors, and designs. Growing up in the spotlight, Her Majesty Queen Sirikit developed an appreciation of fashion as instantly symbolic of both her identity and her nation’s identity.

Sirikit Kitiyakara, born to Prince Nakkhatra Mangkala Kitiyakara, grew up navigating the elite social circles of Europe while her father served as Thailand’s ambassador to the United Kingdom, Denmark, and France. Her diplomatic bona fides would serve her well when she married His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej the Great, and together, they embarked on a historic, 15-nation tour formally debuting the royal couple.

As Their Majesties were representing the Kingdom throughout the West, the young Queen was quick to realize that Thailand lacked an official ensemble. She tapped designers and researchers not only to furnish her wardrobe for official functions in temperate climates but to create outfits that communicated the Thai identity. They would have to carry elements of traditional Thai garments and be made of Thai textiles including silk. Her Majesty also showed a strong preference for handmade, handwoven dresses.

Pierre Balmain, A French couturier who founded fashion house Balmain, worked with Her Majesty for 22 years, designing a series of stunning dresses from Thai silk for every occasion.

The eight Thai dresses

Her Majesty Queen Sirikit led fashion designers and researchers to create the eight styles of Thai dresses referred to as chut thai phra rajaniyom (Thai outfits of royal favor). They drew from historical records of royal dresses to create a suitable ensemble for every occasion, varying in formality and complexity. The chut thai are a celebration of femininity and refinement.